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Nail Glossary

Every technical term from our articles, explained in one sentence and linked to the story it comes from.

(

(Meth)acrylates
The building blocks of gel and acrylic nail products, which can cause allergic reactions when uncured product touches the skin. From: How to choose a nail salon you can trust

3

3-free
A label for nail polish made without toluene, formaldehyde and dibutyl phthalate. From: Nail myths, set straight
3D nail art
Designs with raised elements such as sculpted flowers, charms or textures, rather than flat colour alone. From: Small canvas, big statement: nail art as self-expression

A

Accent nail
A single nail, often the ring finger, painted differently to give a manicure a focal point. From: Colour harmony for nail art: a designer’s guide
Acetone
A strong solvent that softens soak off gel polish; it is highly flammable and dries the skin. From: Taking off gel polish without damaging your nails
Apex
The slightly raised, strongest area of a structured manicure, built to help the nail resist breaking. From: Gel, BIAB or regular polish: which manicure suits you
Autoclave
A device that sterilises metal instruments with pressurised steam, used by careful salons for reusable tools. From: How to choose a nail salon you can trust

B

Baby boomer
Another name for the ombré French, a soft gradient from pink to white. From: The French manicure, classic, micro and reverse
Base coat
A clear first layer that helps polish adhere and protects the nail plate from staining. From: Red nails: the story of a classic
Beau’s lines
Horizontal grooves across the nail that can appear after an illness or an injury. From: Nail myths, set straight
Blooming gel
A clear gel on which colour spreads outwards, used for soft marble and watercolour effects. From: Nail art techniques, from dotting to foils
Blue-based red
A red with a cool cast that tends to flatter cool undertones. From: How to choose a nail colour for your skin undertone
Builder base gel
A thicker base gel that adds structure and, when tinted, creates a smooth translucent finish. From: Milky, sheer and jelly: the quiet luxury of translucent nails
Builder gel
A thicker gel used to add strength or length; most types are filed off rather than soaked. From: Taking off gel polish without damaging your nails

C

Callus
An area of thickened, hard skin formed by pressure and friction, which protects the skin beneath it. From: The pedicure, done properly
Cancellation policy
A salon’s rules on how much notice you must give to cancel, often at least 24 hours. From: Your nail appointment: etiquette, timing and aftercare
Capping
Running the brush along the tip of the nail so colour and top coat wrap and seal the free edge. From: How to give yourself a salon-worthy manicure at home
Chrome
A highly reflective, mirror-like finish, often created by buffing a fine powder onto gel. From: A nail colour calendar: shades for every season
Chrome powder
An ultra fine metallic or pearlescent pigment rubbed onto cured gel to create a reflective finish. From: Chrome nails explained, from mirror to pearl
Clean-up brush
A small, flat brush dipped in remover to correct polish edges around the cuticle and side walls. From: Red nails: the story of a classic
Consultation
The conversation before a service in which the technician asks about allergies, nail health and your wishes. From: How to choose a nail salon you can trust
Contrast
The difference in depth between hair, skin and eyes; strong contrast carries bold shades well. From: How to choose a nail colour for your skin undertone
Contrast of extension
Johannes Itten’s term for balancing colours through the amount of surface each one covers. From: Colour harmony for nail art: a designer’s guide
Curing
The hardening of gel products under a UV or LED lamp, triggered by light-sensitive photoinitiators in the formula. From: Gel, BIAB or regular polish: which manicure suits you
Cuticle
A thin layer of dead tissue from the skin fold at the base of the nail that sticks to the nail plate. From: Cuticle care: what to push back and what to leave alone
Cuticle oil
A nourishing oil massaged into the skin around the nail to keep it supple and the manicure looking fresh. From: Your nail appointment: etiquette, timing and aftercare

D

Dotting tool
A handle with a small metal ball at one or both ends, used to place round dots of polish. From: Nail art techniques, from dotting to foils

E

Electric file
A rotary tool used in salons to shape nails and remove hard products such as hard gel. From: Taking off gel polish without damaging your nails
EMA
Ethyl methacrylate, the liquid used in reputable acrylic systems, as opposed to liquid MMA. From: Nail extensions explained: acrylic, gel and press-on
Eponychium
The living skin at the base of the nail, which is best left intact. From: Cuticle care: what to push back and what to leave alone
Extension
Added length built or attached onto the natural nail, giving structure to long or pointed shapes. From: Square, almond, coffin: a guide to nail shapes
Extraction
A system that draws dust and vapours away from the workstation to keep the salon air clean. From: How to choose a nail salon you can trust

F

Free edge
The part of the nail that extends beyond the fingertip. From: Nail art techniques, from dotting to foils

G

Glazed nails
The name under which pearl chrome over a milky base became a viral favourite in 2022. From: Chrome nails explained, from mirror to pearl
Grit
A measure of a file’s coarseness. Higher numbers are finer and gentler on natural nails. From: How to give yourself a salon-worthy manicure at home

H

Hangnail
A small torn piece of skin at the side of the nail, which can be clipped carefully close to the skin. From: How to give yourself a salon-worthy manicure at home
Henna
A plant dye that stains skin and nails a reddish orange, used in ancient Egypt and in body art today. From: A short history of nail polish
Holographic powder
A powder that shifts colour with the angle of light, showing a spectrum as the hand moves. From: Chrome nails explained, from mirror to pearl
Hue
The colour family itself, such as red, blue or green, independent of how light or intense it is. From: Colour harmony for nail art: a designer’s guide

I

Infill
A maintenance appointment where regrowth near the cuticle is filled and the existing product rebalanced, instead of a full removal. From: Gel, BIAB or regular polish: which manicure suits you
Ingrown toenail
A nail whose edge grows into the surrounding skin, a risk reduced by cutting straight across and not too short. From: The pedicure, done properly
Inhibition layer
A slightly tacky film left on some gels after curing, wiped away with a cleanser to reveal the shine. From: Gel, BIAB or regular polish: which manicure suits you

J

Jelly finish
A translucent, glossy polish that lets some light through and gives colour a glass-like look. From: A nail colour calendar: shades for every season
Jelly polish
A polish with a glassy, see-through finish and more colour than a sheer shade. From: Milky, sheer and jelly: the quiet luxury of translucent nails

K

Keratin
A hard, fibrous protein that forms the nail plate and is also the main building block of hair. From: What makes nails strong: a practical guide to nail health

L

Lifting
Separation of extension product from the natural nail, which can trap moisture and should be seen to by a professional. From: Nail extensions explained: acrylic, gel and press-on
Lunula
The whitish half moon at the base of the nail, the visible part of the nail matrix. From: Negative space and the art of leaving nails bare

M

Micro French
A French manicure with a very thin tip line, well suited to short nails. From: The French manicure, classic, micro and reverse
Milky nails
A manicure in a translucent milky white that softens the nail without fully covering it. From: Milky, sheer and jelly: the quiet luxury of translucent nails
Monomer
The liquid in an acrylic system, mixed with polymer powder to form the paste that hardens in the air. From: Nail extensions explained: acrylic, gel and press-on

N

Nail bed
The skin beneath the nail plate, to which the plate is attached. From: What makes nails strong: a practical guide to nail health
Nail guard
An ornate sheath worn over long nails, made of gold or silver by aristocratic women in Qing dynasty China. From: A short history of nail polish
Nail matrix
The tissue beneath the skin at the base of the nail that produces the nail plate. From: Negative space and the art of leaving nails bare
Nail technician
A trained professional who shapes, cares for and decorates natural or artificial nails. From: Small canvas, big statement: nail art as self-expression
Nailist
A term used in Japan for a nail technician or nail artist. From: Small canvas, big statement: nail art as self-expression
Negative space
The unpainted or clear areas of a design, which become part of the composition rather than background. From: Negative space and the art of leaving nails bare
Nitrocellulose
A film-forming material used in lacquers. It dries to a hard, glossy layer and is the basis of conventional nail polish. From: A short history of nail polish
No-wipe top coat
A gel top coat that leaves no sticky layer after curing, the surface chrome powder needs. From: Chrome nails explained, from mirror to pearl

O

Orangewood stick
A slim wooden tool with a slanted end, used to push back softened cuticles and tidy edges. From: How to give yourself a salon-worthy manicure at home
Oxblood
A deep, dark red with a brownish cast, often worn in autumn and winter. From: Red nails: the story of a classic

P

Paronychia
An infection of the skin around the nail, with redness, swelling and pain. From: Cuticle care: what to push back and what to leave alone
Pearl chrome
A soft iridescent powder finish, often worn over a sheer milky base for a glazed effect. From: Chrome nails explained, from mirror to pearl
Photoinitiator
An ingredient that reacts to light and starts the hardening process in gel polish and builder gel. From: Gel, BIAB or regular polish: which manicure suits you
Pipe-free basin
A pedicure tub without hidden whirlpool pipes, which makes cleaning and disinfecting easier. From: The pedicure, done properly
Podiatrist
A health professional who specialises in the feet, including nail and skin care for people with diabetes or circulation problems. From: The pedicure, done properly
Proximal nail fold
The fold of skin at the base of the nail that lies above the nail matrix. From: Cuticle care: what to push back and what to leave alone
Pumice
A light, porous volcanic stone used to smooth hard skin on the feet gently. From: The pedicure, done properly
Punctate leukonychia
Small white spots on the nail, usually caused by minor knocks to the nail matrix. From: Nail myths, set straight

R

Rubber base
A flexible gel base, often tinted, used in salons to smooth the nail and give translucent colour. From: Milky, sheer and jelly: the quiet luxury of translucent nails

S

Saturation
The intensity of a colour, from vivid and pure to soft and muted. From: Colour harmony for nail art: a designer’s guide
Sculpted nail
An extension built on a form placed under the free edge, rather than on a glued tip. From: Nail extensions explained: acrylic, gel and press-on
Seasonal colour analysis
A method that assigns a person to spring, summer, autumn or winter according to the colours that flatter them. From: A nail colour calendar: shades for every season
Sidewalls
The edges along each side of the nail, which define how straight or tapered a shape looks. From: Square, almond, coffin: a guide to nail shapes
Single use
Describes tools such as files and buffers that serve one client only and are then discarded or given to the client. From: How to choose a nail salon you can trust
Skin tone
How light or deep the skin is, independent of the hue beneath the surface. From: How to choose a nail colour for your skin undertone
Slip solution
A liquid used to keep the brush from sticking while polygel is pressed and shaped. From: Nail extensions explained: acrylic, gel and press-on
Smile line
The curve where the white tip of a French manicure meets the pink of the nail bed. From: The French manicure, classic, micro and reverse
Soak off gel
Gel polish designed to soften in acetone so that it can be removed without filing it all away. From: Taking off gel polish without damaging your nails
Soak-off gel
A gel polish applied like regular polish, cured under a UV or LED lamp and removed by soaking. From: A short history of nail polish
Squoval
A square shape with softened corners, combining strength with a gentler outline. From: Square, almond, coffin: a guide to nail shapes
Stamping plate
A metal plate with etched designs that hold polish until a silicone stamper lifts them onto the nail. From: Nail art techniques, from dotting to foils
Stress area
The point where the nail leaves the nail bed, where it is most likely to bend or break. From: Square, almond, coffin: a guide to nail shapes
Striping brush
A long, very thin brush that holds polish along its length for straight lines and long curves. From: Nail art techniques, from dotting to foils
Striping tape
Very thin adhesive tape used to mask straight lines and geometric sections on the nail. From: Negative space and the art of leaving nails bare
Swatch
A sample of a colour painted on a nail tip or card, used to judge how a shade looks. From: Your nail appointment: etiquette, timing and aftercare

T

Tip guide
An adhesive strip placed just below the free edge to give the tip a clean line. From: The French manicure, classic, micro and reverse
Top coat
The final, shiny layer of a gel manicure, which seals the colour beneath it. From: Taking off gel polish without damaging your nails
Transitional shade
A colour that works across the seasons, such as mauve, taupe or nude, bridging two seasonal palettes. From: A nail colour calendar: shades for every season

U

Undertone
The hue beneath the skin’s surface, described as cool, warm or neutral. From: How to choose a nail colour for your skin undertone

V

Value
How light or dark a colour is. Strong value contrast reads clearly, even from a distance. From: Colour harmony for nail art: a designer’s guide
Vinyl stencil
A thin adhesive cut-out shape that keeps part of the nail bare while colour is applied. From: Negative space and the art of leaving nails bare

About this glossary

The glossary collects the terms our authors explain at the end of each article. Inside the articles, the first mention of a glossary term is underlined with a dotted line: tap or hover over it to read the definition without leaving the text.

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